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David Maas (3banger)  > Motorcycles > Sprint ST Frame Sliders
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David Maas (3banger) > This page is best viewed in the journal style; see upper right corner of web page.

After a simple garage tip over cost me about 600 bucks in crushed left side plastics I decided I needed frame sliders for my 2005 Sprint ST.  I thought I was beyond this type of mistake in my riding career&#8230;I was WRONG WRONG WRONG!  I&#8217;ve had frame sliders on my previous bikes and was stupid not to put them on this one.  Also I didn&#8217;t like the look of the current selection of aftermarket systems.  But  since I learned Triumph ST&#8217;s fair poorly when tipped over I decided I need some type of frame slider despite there appearance and as usual decided to build some parts of my own.

Here are the final parts I ended up with.  The Sliders them selves are built by Supply-N-Demand, LCC an ebay store at http://stores.ebay.com/Supply-N-Demand-LLC.  They are 5&#8221; x 1 ¾&#8221; variety with replaceable plastic caps.  Also they come with a stand off machined into the bottom that I cut off.  The red aluminum bars are pieces I fabricated; I need these to allow the sliders to come out below the silver trim in fairing.  I believe they will work better here and look better as well.

The offset bars are 4 1/4&#8221; x 1 1/2&#8221; x 5/8&#8221;.  The mounting holes are 2 ¾&#8221; from center to center.  The clearance hole for the engine mounting bolt is 0.242&#8221; dia. and the slider mounting hole is 0.172&#8221; dia. tapped to M10 x 1.25.

They are made from 6016-T6 aluminum and I figured there bend strength at 1400 lbs using simple beam equations.  The finish is from an 80 grit belt sander and then painted with red anodized color paint I found at pep boys.
David Maas (3banger) > Right Side View:

The top engine mounting bolts had to be replaced by a longer M12 x 1.25 grade 8.8 bolt.  I went with 110mm length bolt but these were a little long, I&#8217;m sure 100mm would have been fine.  The engine mounting points are shifted abut 3/8&#8221; to the left with respect to the fairings.  To make the sliders protrude equally the jam nut in the above image is used as a spacer on the right side between the offset bar and engine mount since it is about 3/8&#8221; thick.
David Maas (3banger) > Left Side View:
David Maas (3banger) > Right Side With Fairing:
David Maas (3banger) > Left Side With Fairing:
David Maas (3banger) > Slider Protrusion:
David Maas (3banger) > I don&#8217;t know how well these will work and hope never to test them but they&#8217;ve got to better then nothing.  They did turn out a little on the bling bling side but so far I like the looks.  I&#8217;m not sure how well the paint will hold up since they catch a lot of heat from the head pipes.  So far so good after about 150 miles.  The total coast was a little less the $50.  The sliders them selves were $30 of that $50.

One final lesson I learned was to leave the passenger foot pegs on.  Took them off because I never carry a passenger and when I dropped the bike this allowed the tail plastic to also be crushed as well.
This page is best viewed in the journal style; see upper right corner of web page.

After a simple garage tip over cost me about 600 bucks in crushed left side plastics I decided I needed frame sliders for my 2005 Sprint ST. I thought I was beyond this type of mistake in my riding career…I was WRONG WRONG WRONG! I’ve had frame sliders on my previous bikes and was stupid not to put them on this one. Also I didn’t like the look of the current selection of aftermarket systems. But since I learned Triumph ST’s fair poorly when tipped over I decided I need some type of frame slider despite there appearance and as usual decided to build some parts of my own.

Here are the final parts I ended up with. The Sliders them selves are built by Supply-N-Demand, LCC an ebay store athttp://stores.ebay.com/Supply-N-Demand-LLC. They are 5” x 1 ¾” variety with replaceable plastic caps. Also they come with a stand off machined into the bottom that I cut off. The red aluminum bars are pieces I fabricated; I need these to allow the sliders to come out below the silver trim in fairing. I believe they will work better here and look better as well.

The offset bars are 4 1/4” x 1 1/2” x 5/8”. The mounting holes are 2 ¾” from center to center. The clearance hole for the engine mounting bolt is 0.242” dia. and the slider mounting hole is 0.172” dia. tapped to M10 x 1.25.

They are made from 6016-T6 aluminum and I figured there bend strength at 1400 lbs using simple beam equations. The finish is from an 80 grit belt sander and then painted with red anodized color paint I found at pep boys.
 > This page is best viewed in the journal style; see upper right corner of web page.

After a simple garage tip over cost me about 600 bucks in crushed left side plastics I decided I needed frame sliders for my 2005 Sprint ST.  I thought I was beyond this type of mistake in my riding career&#8230;I was WRONG WRONG WRONG!  I&#8217;ve had frame sliders on my previous bikes and was stupid not to put them on this one.  Also I didn&#8217;t like the look of the current selection of aftermarket systems.  But  since I learned Triumph ST&#8217;s fair poorly when tipped over I decided I need some type of frame slider despite there appearance and as usual decided to build some parts of my own.

Here are the final parts I ended up with.  The Sliders them selves are built by Supply-N-Demand, LCC an ebay store at http://stores.ebay.com/Supply-N-Demand-LLC.  They are 5&#8221; x 1 ¾&#8221; variety with replaceable plastic caps.  Also they come with a stand off machined into the bottom that I cut off.  The red aluminum bars are pieces I fabricated; I need these to allow the sliders to come out below the silver trim in fairing.  I believe they will work better here and look better as well.

The offset bars are 4 1/4&#8221; x 1 1/2&#8221; x 5/8&#8221;.  The mounting holes are 2 ¾&#8221; from center to center.  The clearance hole for the engine mounting bolt is 0.242&#8221; dia. and the slider mounting hole is 0.172&#8221; dia. tapped to M10 x 1.25.

They are made from 6016-T6 aluminum and I figured there bend strength at 1400 lbs using simple beam equations.  The finish is from an 80 grit belt sander and then painted with red anodized color paint I found at pep boys.
This page is best viewed in the journal style; see upper right corner of web page.

After a simple garage tip over cost me about 600 bucks in crushed left side plastics I decided I needed frame sliders for my 2005 Sprint ST. I thought I was beyond this type of mistake in my riding career…I was WRONG WRONG WRONG! I’ve had frame sliders on my previous bikes and was stupid not to put them on this one. Also I didn’t like the look of the current selection of aftermarket systems. But since I learned Triumph ST’s fair poorly when tipped over I decided I need some type of frame slider despite there appearance and as usual decided to build some parts of my own.

Here are the final parts I ended up with. The Sliders them selves are built by Supply-N-Demand, LCC an ebay store athttp://stores.ebay.com/Supply-N-Demand-LLC. They are 5” x 1 ¾” variety with replaceable plastic caps. Also they come with a stand off machined into the bottom that I cut off. The red aluminum bars are pieces I fabricated; I need these to allow the sliders to come out below the silver trim in fairing. I believe they will work better here and look better as well.

The offset bars are 4 1/4” x 1 1/2” x 5/8”. The mounting holes are 2 ¾” from center to center. The clearance hole for the engine mounting bolt is 0.242” dia. and the slider mounting hole is 0.172” dia. tapped to M10 x 1.25.

They are made from 6016-T6 aluminum and I figured there bend strength at 1400 lbs using simple beam equations. The finish is from an 80 grit belt sander and then painted with red anodized color paint I found at pep boys.
Camera: Panasonic (Dmc-fz20) |
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